Norton PSA Rolls are a convenient and effective way to fine sand coatings on wood floors. These rolls are made of aluminum oxide and come in two grit sizes: 180g and 220g. They are perfect for inter-coat abrasion or repairs, and are easy to use on any job.
One of the standout features of Norton PSA Rolls is their unique scratch pattern. Unlike traditional screens, which can leave circular scratches, these rolls do not produce any visible scratches at all. This is because the grains of aluminum oxide are small and not very coarse, so they do not leave any noticeable marks on the wood surface.
Overall, Norton PSA Rolls are a valuable tool for anyone looking to achieve a smooth, professional finish on their wood flooring projects. Whether you are a professional contractor or a DIY enthusiast, these rolls can help you get the job done right.
Norton PSA Roll Advantages
- Super fine grain
- Very smooth sanding
- Sticky backing to attach to anything
- Compact roll
Norton PSA Roll Help & FAQ’s
Solid hardwood flooring is a popular choice for homeowners due to its natural beauty and durability. However, like any flooring material, it can also have some typical problems that may arise. Here are a few examples:
- Moisture damage: Solid hardwood flooring is vulnerable to moisture damage, which can cause warping, cupping, or buckling. This can occur from spills, leaks, or even high levels of humidity in the home.
- Scratches and dents: Solid hardwood flooring can be susceptible to scratches and dents from heavy furniture, pets, or dropped objects. These can be more noticeable than in other flooring types due to the natural appearance of the wood.
While engineered hardwood flooring offers several advantages, such as greater stability and resistance to moisture, it also has some typical problems that may arise. Here are a few examples:
- Scratches: The top layer of engineered hardwood flooring is usually made of a thin veneer of real wood, which can be easily scratched or dented by heavy furniture or pets.
- Delamination: If the adhesive used to bind the layers of the engineered hardwood flooring fails, the planks can begin to separate or delaminate.
- Moisture Damage: Although engineered hardwood flooring is more resistant to moisture than solid hardwood flooring, excessive moisture exposure can still cause warping, cupping, or buckling.
- Limited Sanding: The thin veneer layer of engineered hardwood flooring means that there is a limited amount of wood that can be sanded down over time. This can make it challenging to refinish the floor if it becomes worn or damaged.
- Poor Quality: Not all engineered hardwood flooring is created equal. Some manufacturers use low-quality materials or production methods that can lead to issues such as warping, splitting, or shrinking.
- Checking – Engineered hardwood checking refers to the appearance of small cracks or splits that can develop in the top layer of the flooring. These cracks can occur along the grain of the wood and can vary in size and frequency.
It’s important to note that these problems are not universal and can be avoided with proper installation, maintenance, and care. Choosing high-quality engineered hardwood flooring and having it installed by a professional can also help to minimize the likelihood of these issues.
Solid hardwood has a smaller footprint in the gas, electricity, and consumables used in production.
Solid hardwood has the most usable wear layer of an engineered wood. Even full 6mm wear layers still have a little less meat on the vanner compared to solid hardwood. Solid hardwood can last centuries. The glue in engineered hardwood is only rated for 25 years.
Typically engineered hardwood is slightly more stable. However, with a bad climate, all wood will move or shrink. While more stable, engineered hardwood has wood going in different directions per layer which can cause other issues if there is a climate change in the home.
While it is true that engineered flooring can have issues with delamination or the veneer layer coming off, this is generally not a common occurrence with high-quality engineered products from reputable manufacturers. Additionally, the adhesive used in the production of engineered flooring is designed to withstand the stresses of everyday use and is typically very durable. Solid flooring, on the other hand, can also experience issues such as cupping, warping, or cracking due to changes in humidity and temperature. Both types of flooring have their own potential problems, and it is important to choose a high-quality product from a reputable manufacturer and to properly maintain and care for your floors to avoid issues. Even with a reputable company – you will have issues from time to time.
It is true that the production process for engineered hardwood flooring involves more steps and materials than solid prefinished or unfinished flooring. The logs used for engineered flooring are typically shipped overseas to Asian countries, where they are processed into the multiple layers that make up the core of the flooring. This process requires a significant amount of glue and other materials that are not used in solid flooring. The finished flooring is then wrapped in plastic, boxed, and shipped back overseas on a boat to be distributed to stores in the United States. This transportation process also has an environmental impact due to the emissions produced by transportation vehicles.
It is true that the colors of engineered hardwood flooring may not last as long as those of solid hardwood flooring. They can fade or change within 2-3 years, and the color can also vary between different production runs, making it challenging to match during an add-on project. To ensure a consistent look, it is recommended to purchase extra flooring during the initial installation or to purchase all the necessary flooring for an add-on project at the same time. This can help to avoid frustration and ensure a seamless match.
While it is generally easy to match the color of solid prefinished hardwood flooring with stains, the presence of bevels can create an issue for matching later on. Colors can go in and out of style, and become difficult to find years later, making it challenging to match the color of beveled flooring during an add-on project. On the other hand, solid prefinished flooring is less likely to go out of production, making it easier to find and match if an add-on project is needed in the future. However, it’s always a good idea to keep extra planks from the original installation to ensure a seamless match if an add-on is required.
Compared to other types of flooring, solid prefinished hardwood flooring does use more resources, energy, and packaging to manufacture. While it may not be as detrimental to the environment as some types of engineered hardwood flooring, there is still an impact to consider. However, it’s worth noting that solid prefinished hardwood flooring is a long-lasting and durable flooring option, which can make it a more environmentally friendly choice over time, as it will not need to be replaced as frequently as other types of flooring. Additionally, choosing sustainably sourced wood and eco-friendly finishes can further reduce the environmental impact of this type of flooring.
The bevels in engineered hardwood flooring can limit the number of times the flooring can be sanded, which can be considered a disadvantage compared to solid prefinished hardwood flooring. Generally, you may lose one or two sandings on engineered hardwood flooring due to the presence of bevels, compared to solid prefinished flooring. Therefore, if you anticipate needing to refinish your floors several times over their lifespan, solid prefinished hardwood flooring may be a better option for you.
It is not possible to install an unfinished hardwood floor today, as it requires a finishing process that typically takes about a week to complete. In comparison, prefinished solid hardwood flooring can be installed more quickly, typically taking around three days. Therefore, choosing prefinished solid hardwood can speed up the installation timeline compared to unfinished hardwood flooring.
Cracks are an inevitable aspect of any wood-based flooring, regardless of the type. Engineered hardwood flooring may have fewer cracks than other types, but it can still move over time. The reason why cracks are less noticeable in engineered flooring is due to the presence of bevels. On the other hand, solid unfinished hardwood flooring may show more cracks, even if it is the same as engineered flooring. In some cases, the way the wood is cut can affect the amount of cracking due to moisture. While this can be a disadvantage, it is not a cause for concern if you take proper care of the humidity and temperature levels in your home. All types of flooring can move if they are not properly maintained.
Engineered hardwood flooring is often available in wider planks than solid or prefinished hardwood flooring, as it is made by peeling wood and then layering it together. This method allows for wider planks to be produced in larger quantities compared to solid or prefinished hardwood flooring. Typically, engineered hardwood planks range from 5 to 10 inches in width, but wider options may also be available depending on the manufacturer.
Engineered hardwood flooring offers an extensive palette of colors to choose from, providing a vast array of options for those seeking a very specific color or style. With the availability of such a broad range of colors, you can rest assured that your specific color needs can be met and that the product is ready to be installed.
Prefinished solid hardwood flooring offers a wide range of color and sample options, allowing you to see the finished product on a larger scale before starting the project. This provides a reliable way to visualize the final look of your floor and make an informed decision about the color and style that best suits your needs and preferences.
Prefinished solid hardwood flooring is ready to be installed right after an acclimation period. The wood is stained, textured, and finished at the factory, so there is no need to go through the process of staining, texturing, or finishing it on-site after securing it with staples or cleat fasteners.
Prefinished products may become discontinued if they do not sell well, but solid hardwood flooring will never be discontinued because the raw material – the wood – is grown on trees and can always be harvested. This means that if you have a hickory floor installed today, you can always add onto it or match it in 30 years’ time.
Solid hardwood flooring that is site-finished typically has square edges without any bevels. Beveled edges can collect dust and dirt, leaving remnants in the cracks, whereas solid flooring is easier to clean and maintain since it has no inherent cracks.
Solid flooring is essentially the same as other types of flooring, except that it is finished on site. However, solid unfinished hardwood flooring offers the same variety of options that you would find in any store in the Boise or Spokane area. It can be stained in any color, wire-brushed or hand-scraped, and finished with any level of gloss.
Solid unfinished flooring is actually the most environmentally friendly flooring option available today, despite what the marketing industry may lead you to believe.
It is ideal to go the long way or “with the grain” of the flooring. You are less likely to see streaks or unclean areas you did not get 100% clean.
You will notice the cleaning mop head gets dirty after about 100-200 sq ft in your home. It is ideal to wash it out in the sink and then begin again.
The mop should be damp. The key to cleaning hardwood flooring with a cleaning mop is to vacuum first. By vacuuming first you get a majority f the dust off the floor so you do not create mud.
No, since the floor is 3/4″ thick the fasteners such as cleats or staples seat better and typically do not go through the flooring and let the floor move to create a noise.
We recommend gluing 4″ and higher for wood flooring. When we recommend gluing we recommend glue assist which uses adhesive sausage in a “S” pattern.
No, it is the same as unfinished hardwood. It is better than engineered hardwood as the wear layer is thicker and this naturally means the floor will last longer. However, if you are not a professional installing prefinished flooring, prefinished flooring is better than unfinished as unfinished requires very niche tools to make the jobs perfect and not sub-par.
Solid prefinished flooring is just that solid hardwood flooring that is prefinished at the factory. Virtually the only downside to this method is that the boards usually have a slight bevel on the edges so that there are no issues while installing the boards.
Absolutely, unfinished hardwood flooring can be stained any color. Depending on the wood species will have an effect on the outcome color of what is being applied. You are also able to apply different textures to floors to make them look different.
Solid unfinished simply does not have a finish on it yet. Solid Prefinished flooring is unfinished flooring with a factory stain and finishes on it. Generally, these types of flooring are in the same category.
Well, you should hire a professional hardwood flooring installer/refinisher. Basically, you sand a floor with different machines, then put sealer on, and then the final finish coats on.
It won’t do anything but the wood will be unprotected. Some racquetball courts are unfinished but drinks and such are not allowed near them as it will cause issues. If you leave the wood unfinished it will ultimately become grey or black in color.
All floors are priced relative to the product quality. Cheaper wood like engineered 3/8″ vs 3/4″ flooring will be cheaper. generally, everything that Rustic Wood Floor Supply sells is priced the same across all sections of flooring based on quality. We have some prefinished items much more expensive than unfinished wood and some are more expensive. When you price the higher quality engineered woods against solid unfinished hardwood, unfinished is generally cheaper up front and in the long run.
Yes and no. Engineered hardwood is wood, so, it is as durable as solid hardwood. However, you are unlikely to be able to refinish it so you need to be sure to maintain the floor and buff & coat if possible every few years to ensure your investment lasts a long time.
While there are disadvantages to engineered flooring, there are advantages as well.
- Colors – You will notice that engineered flooring has more color options than maybe you are used to. Not that site finish on solid hardwood flooring you can’t get these colors – it is usually hard and can be time-consuming. Most engineered flooring has multi-layered colors that are not easily reproducible with stains.
- No sanding – While sanding does take an extra day or 2 engineered flooring allows for anyone to install and be done after installation
- Cheaper price points – While cheaper isn’t always better, not everyone has money for solid hardwood. However, cheaper usually has more issues so be careful which cheap option you choose.
Coming from an industry professional, below are real disadvantages of engineered hardwood flooring that traditional flooring stores will not tell you or warn you about prior to buying flooring. Remember, we sell every flooring – we just make sure to fully educate our client’s customers to the fullest for the most informed decision before spending thousands to only find out the choice was wrong for them.
- Unable to refinish – most engineered flooring has small wear layers, hand scraping, or something else that does not allow for resanding. ONLY 4mm with no distressing can really be truly refinished 1-2 times.
- Delamination – these products use many layers of wood to create their product. You need to understand this is not one solid piece of wood and glue can and will fail.
- Different cuts expand and contract differently – Different manufacturers to get certain price points will use cheap wood that produces issues when it gets cold or heats up.
- More noise – You are putting many layers down that are thin. The nail that goes through these materials usually does not set correctly, why we recommend a glue assist. These nails will produce noise if not set correctly. Pops are within spec.
I mean, this one is impossible to truly answer. However, Ideally, even if you do not believe it solid hardwood is probably better overall. That does not mean that engineered flooring is not ideal for certain applications or homes. Solid hardwood is longer lasting since you are able to refinish it. Engineered is possibly better for you if you desire a very specific color, the flooring is going below grade and your timeline is very slim.
Engineered hardwood typically lasts between 20 and 30 years.
Because they do have a top layer of hardwood, like solid hardwood, they are susceptible to scratches.
If scratch resistance is important to you, look for engineered hardwood floors with a scratch-resistant top coat. Small scratches on engineered hardwood can be repaired a wax repair kit or a cotton cloth and some rubbing alcohol.
Since the popularity of engineered hardwood has grown, solid hardwood is generally on par with most higher end engineered floors. Cheaper floors like 3/8″ flooring will still be cheaper.
While engineered hardwood may look similar to laminate flooring, they are not the same.
Engineered hardwood contains a top layer of solid wood, while laminate flooring has a photographic layer coated with a wear-layer that appears to look like a wood surface.
In addition, laminate flooring is usually thinner than engineered hardwood.
This question really depends on a lot of factors. First and foremost, if you have mapjor water damage the floor is ruined. Usually engineered floors are unable to be sanded since ther eis distressing, bevels and other things making sanding impossible. If you have no major damage a floor should last 20-30 years if maintained and you buff and coat the floor. A solid hardwood floor will last much longer.
Engineered flooring is typically between 3/8” to 3/4” thick, whereas solid hardwood is 1/2” to 3/4“ thick.
When compared to other flooring options, engineered hardwood floors offer the following advantages:
- Affordability: Engineered hardwood flooring falls on the lower end of the wood flooring price scale, typically ranging from $4–$10 per square foot depending on thickness and species.
- Moisture-resistant: Although standard engineered hardwood isn’t waterproof, it does boast excellent water resistance, making it a better choice for moist environments such as kitchens and bathrooms.
- Easy to maintain: Engineered wood floors simply need regular sweeping or gentle vacuuming to maintain, and may occasionally be mopped with a wet mop and neutral cleaner to restore shine to their surface.
- Quick installation: The click-and-lock system offered by engineered wood flooring allows for a quick and easy installation.
Engineered hardwood flooring looks almost identical to solid wood, but the way it is manufactured offers premium durability at an affordable price. Instead of a single wood plank, engineered wood flooring is made of a high-quality plywood core with a thinner layer of wood on top. This allows engineered hardwood to display the beauty of its species while leveraging the cost-effectiveness and added strength brought by its design.
Whether engineered or solid hardwood flooring is the better option for your home is dependent upon several factors. Engineered hardwood flooring is better for moist environments than solid hardwood, making it the best option for kitchens, bathrooms, mudrooms, and basements. Because of engineered hardwood’s improved water resistance, it also offers simpler maintenance than solid wood flooring, as you can use a wet mop to clean its surface. However, engineered hardwood floors cannot be restained over time, meaning solid wood has a longer lifespan. That being said, engineered hardwood is best suited for homes where durability is of primary concern, such as those with small children and animals, or in high-traffic areas such as kitchens or basements.
Full repair, free of charge. 3-Year Comprehensive Warranty Coverage – including wear and tear! Fast, thorough and free for the first three years. Festool aclso guarantees parts for atleast 10 years after the last tool is sold of a certain itteration.
Yes, the tools come in corded and battery options. You will notice that the battery operated tools actually offer a stronger motor.
Absolutely, Festool is a highend brand tha toffers great tools and an amazing warranty. If you are looking for professional tools, Festool is a great option.
Urbanfloor engineered wood floors can be installed on above, at or below grade and only require sensible precautions. Moisture can be a problem below grade even when no moisture exists at the time of installation. A vapor barrier, sleeper system or both should be used for nailing down and a two-part urethane adhesive should be used for gluing down.
Absolutely. Hardwood floors are convenient to maintain and clean, making it easier to avoid the dust build-up that often occurs with carpets. Cleaning up pet hair and spills is also more convenient with hardwood floors.
The Urbanfloor PLATINUM SHIELD™ UV finish features seven coats applied with extreme accuracy and toughened by the millions of Aluminum Oxide Crystals to ensure a smooth, uniform finish with unparalleled abrasion-resistance and beauty. Find out more at our structure and quality page.
It can be confusing what is and isnt affected by heat. Any easy way to know is if the title has SPC in it. SPC is unaffected by the sun up to 240 degrees. Ridgid core and luxury vinyl without the SPC core is affected at around 95 degrees.
Yes, our 20mil product is meant for commerical spaces. You are able to use the 12mil in light comerical areas as well with certainty it will last.
Yes, our luxury vinyl spc flooring options all have the pad attached. You do not need to put extra padding down.
The main spec for all luxury vinyl is the stone content. The stone content makes it so the product is stable. A low ston content (less than 69%) will move in heat through a window.
We would recommend asking to have one of our experts come out to figure out why the wood is moving to mitigate the issue. Usually slight movement is normal through the seasons. Y ou are able to stop all movement by keeping the RH and moisture the same throughout the year.
The NWFA requires the use of staples or cleats and for solid hardwood flooring planks wider than 4″ to be glued as well. While gluing is recommended there are 2 options, full spread or glue assist. We find that glue assist is the ideal way to fasten 4″+ wide boards down.
Splid hardwood is usually 3/4″ thick. The flooring also has a tounge and groove to lock the flooring in.
Yes, they will be flush to the ground and not have a lip. Self rim vents are not ideal since they will catch on things and collect dirt.
Yes, our wood and metal flooring vents need to be installed when the floor is being installed or routered in after. Installation of the flooring vents listed are easy, if you have some expereince with a track saw, fein multitool or table saw.
Absolutely, all our vents we sell come with a waranty. If your vent breaks you are able to bring it in for a replacement. Our flooring vents are made to withhold 900lbs or so.
Norton blaze is for ripping finish off and getting hte floro flat. Red heat is good for refinishes that are pretty flat already and for final sanding. THAT DOES NOT MEAN red heat cannot be used for intial cuts, orange blaze just lasts longer and is sharper. However, the blaze mineral is not the best for final sanding on a belt. The scratches are deeper.
Each manufacturer of sandpaper has different levels of sandpaper. The highest current grain is full ceramic. The full ceramic lasts longer, does NOT create bad scratches and is decent pricing. Overall you will find that 3M will last long and works well, but does not excel at any given thing. Norton paper is made in different types and the different types work great fo different senarios and produce less scratches.
You will need to use a mixing filler or a wood doe and mix it with dust. You mix these fillers with the wood dust from the floor and it will match exactly.
Yes, All fillers we sell accept stain from Duraseal. You will have no issues with staining a floor while using the fillers we sell.
Absolutely, all filler options are generally dried between 20-40 min.
Every house’s power grid is different and can cause issues for any flooring machine. It is ideal wto use a power booster to ensure your machines power is consistent.
Usually it seems like your finish scratches, most likely it is the flooring that “dents”. Finish is malleable and will move with the dent so it appears the finish dented, but it really is the flooring under the finish.
NO finish, material or flooring product will repel water forever. All finishes are meant to let the products breath to a certain extent. Oil repels water, but if the product moves at all (which it will) you will have a crack where water can penetrate. LVP and engineered wood have the same issues as both products can move due to enviormental changes. That includes waterproof flooring!
All the finishes are pretty comparable between the different categopries, waterbased, penetrating, swedish etc. The main difference is the color/look of the floor after.
Hardowoood flooring equipment and machines are not regularly updated as they have stood the test of time and work great as is. These machines are rugged, can sand a floor flat and generally have everything you would want or need to get a job done correctly.
No, just because it is easier to spread does not mean it is less sticky. The beauty of a Saline based glue for flooring is that is moves with the wood and is extremely sticky without ruining the wood flooring if it touches it.
Yes, the saline glues we sell work for all the products that we sell.
Different glues allow for different widths. It is recommended to check the label and buy accordingly. Each of our glues has the width rating listed on their respective pages. Some of the glues allow unlimited width.
It is recommended to clean the glue droppings/mess up within 45 min as it is not skinned over yeat and has yet to bond to anything. The easiest way to do this is with a damp cloth.
Saline glue is a very popular hardwood flooring glue that is considered “new” generation of glues. These glues offer no need to mix, dry fast and have awesome elasticity. Typically these glues have a skin time of 4-60 min and a full cure time of 18-24 hours. We recommend saline glues from pallmann and loba as they work well in our clkimate to allow movement without sheering the glue to board bond.
This is impossible to say as there is a hundred different ways to use a disc. What I can say is that it lasts about the same as 3m regalite and bona blue but leaves a better scratch for your next pass. This is important if staining.
Ceramic. Not mixed ceramic or wanna be ceramic but full, reall ceramic grain.
The Norton Red Heat sanding discs are awesome at leaving a smaller and consistent scratch than other brands as this is a full ceramic. The full ceramic breaks down slower, is not as wild with the scratches and generally leaves a much better sanding surface for the next grit to take away the heavier scratche sin the low grits.
Mesh power typically lasts 500-900 sq ft. BUt is highly variable on the grit being used. 220g Norton mesh power will last longer than 80g.
Just like normal sandpaper really. The only other difference is you need to use the interface pads to give this sandpaper better support.
Norton mesh lasts very long, does not gum up and is great and leaving no scratches. This product can be usxed from final sanding to intercoat abrasion. These demolish the bona diamond discs in use and price.
Well, this depends on a lot of factors such as hat grit you are using etc. However the lower grits tend to get 1000 saq ft. while the higher girts seem to get 2000-4000 sq ft a cut piece. (duel sanders with a rider)
We encourage people to use blaze for the lower grits and then red heat for the higher grits. However, the price difference is very minimal so blaze might be the best option. Blaze on lower grits cuts harder and longer than red heat. On higher grits, red heat products a better scratch – however, in a gym this might not matter too much.
Yes, both the norton red heat and the blaze gym floor sanding rolls work great. Both options have great cloth backing to ensure long lasting sandpaper. The backing on these rolls is far superior to other brands.
Think of orange blaze as specifically for ripping stuff off the wood or flattening wood quickly. Red heat generally does not do as much “work” to the finish or wood but produces less scratches on the floor. Red heat is a overall good belt that works for every application – orange blaze is not meant for final sanding.
Depends what you are talking about. However, if you are looking for the best scratch on a floor – Norton offers the best pure ceramic on the market. Most companies grain is inconsistent and leaves random scratches as the grains are all different sizes.
The cloth backing is thick and holds together well. The belt sandpaper will wear faster than the belt cloth backing. The good thing with a thickbacking is it ensures your tracking is good throughout the whole sanding process.
Absolutely, these belts are premium belts with thick backing. If you are having any tracking issues, check out your upper roller.
To not have denting on the super soft wheels you will need to upgrade to polyurethane wheels. These wheels put less pressure on the wood and will not dent.
The Super 7R edger is not as easy to adjust compared to a flip or gecko. However, once you know how to adjust it – is not super hard to do.
The Super 7R is tried and tested. If you want something that can rip finish off the floor and hone wood down to flat, fast – the American Sanders Super 7R is your best bet. This edger is a staple for gym floor contractors for decades!
There is a RS-16 and RS-16DC. Rustic only sells the American Sanders rs-16DC since dust containment is very important. so DC stands for dust containment.
While this machine is less befy and agresive than the 1600DC, it is great for buffing on the final pass with a screen or mesh power. It is also great for intercoat abrasion as it is light and easy to move into the house. Another reaon this machine is good for intercoat abrasion is it is lighter so it will not cut through too much finish or buff off stain.
Yes, this machine is one of the more agressive machines on the market. This thing loves to eat wood for breakfast. The pressure on the head is higher than a lagler.
Besides the wheel base which takes a lot of abuse, the machine is very durable and long lasting.
Yes, the multihead type tools work perfectly fine with a 1600dc.
While warranty work is not normal, American Sanders has a b ig network of approved repair shops. This makes it very easy to get your American Sanders 1600dc fixed fast!
Absolutely, while this is a 110v buffer and you might think it is not as strong as a power drive or spider – this thing does it all. The American Snaders 1600DC is strong, durable and ready for any flooring application you might throw at it.
Since there is a wide range of grits and applications this is an impossible question to answer.
The higher grits are great for intercoat abrasion. The mineral used for this is very fine and tight, meaning it leaves less noticable scratches.
These discs are able to be used after you use the big machine or have the finish off the floor. The 3M Easy Change discs are a finer sanding paper for more finish sanding.
Generally depends on grain raise. If you are buffing an oil or a normal unpigamented sealer it might be best to buff with 150g-220g. Pigamented sealers like whiteseal, nordic etc will most likely want to be buffed lightly if at all and a spp or maroon pad is great for that.
yes, one is slightly more rough than the other. However, after a few seconds of buffing they are generally about the same.
Usually used to buff waterbased finishes or as an intermediatry for a screen, easy change disc or something like this.
No, overtime it will do damage to the finsh and make it duller.
Depends on how dirty the floor is and how fast you are moving. In a house 1 should do 500-1000 sq. In a gym you will either get 1500-2000ft or as little as 500 if the floor is dirty or has lots of sticky gum type substances.
Yes, they are pretty harmless on floors unless you sit in one spot for a whilte. These pads are able to help agitate cleaner or depolishers into the affected surface. They also pickup some debris as you buff, so be careful if the floor is very dirty as this debris can scratch the floor.
Since these pads are able to be used on so many different applications this question is impossible to answer.
This pad can be a intermediate pad for screens or Easy Change Discs as well as used for buffing on stain, taking off wax oils and such.
Really depends on what you are doing but for best practice follow the instructions of the finish being applied. If still unsure these should work.
- Waterbased: 180g-220g
- Oil-based: 150g-180g
- Swedish: used 220
While highly dependant on what you are sanding. On raw freshly sanded wood you shoudl get 150-300 sq ft out of a screen. You are able to flip it and get some more usage. But, be careful as you might be too dull and poilishing the floor or getting a different look when finishing the floor.
3M sanding screens are made out of silicone carbide. This mineral is not as good as others but produce a good result as the mineral is dull at the tip and when breaking down doesnt make the mineral sharper.
Either you are overusing the paper and need to change it out or you are using too fine of a grit for the application.
Yes, 3M produces a quality product that really stands up to the abuse. The biggest mistake some flooring contractors make is overusing the disc and heating it up, thus, sticking to the machine or velcro.
Yes, the backing is thick and appropriate for each application. The Regalite mix of grain is good for all phases of sanding. Please note that Regalite is not the best mineral for final sanding as the mineral is different in size because it is a mixture of minerals.
On a normal floor 300-500 ft is a good guidance. Every floor is different remember – a cherry floor might get more use because it is soft or a brazillian cherry floor might just get less usage. Also, higher grits probably get an extra 100-200 sq ft of good usage.
No, not really it is black and made of what looks like rocks. It is not apart of the Regalite family.
Still a contractor favorite on the west coast, who doesn’t love purple? Anyways, these belts are constructed in an overbuilt way. The backing is thick and unless absolutely hammered do not rip or break. The grain is strong and long lasting, it is predictable on each and every job.
Yes, Pallmann is able to facilitate that for your first job using Pallmann. Give us a call.
Absolutely, give us a call and we can set this up for you.
If you are looking for help you can go to – https://us.pallmann.net/ or call them at this number 866.505.4810.
Pallmann the company is based out of Denver for their USA distribution. The company itself is founded in Germany.
Typically when you think of Pallmann wood flooring products you think of ease of use. The Pallmann brand of products tend to be the easiest to use in their respective categories. You will not find another company that has the same lineup with the ease of use for their products.
Absolutely. The Pallmann Spider is likely around 98% dust free with a good vacuum. We advise to use a dust seperator as there is a lot of dust produced.
The Spider uses 220v Power. This power gives it the power to be able to sand the flattest floors.
The machine uses 3 heads which create 3 different scratches going that overlap at once. The Spider is unlike a traditional buffer that makes a full circle pass on the same scratch plane. With a spider you will never get a circular scratch pattern. Another reason is the Pallmann Spider RPM adjustment allows for a much faster spinning head creating millions of smaller scratch undetectable to the eye.
The Pallmann Spider uses 7″ hook and loop. We recommend Norton Red Heat & the Mesh Power as it performs the best.
No, the wood might change from sun damage but Pall-X Power will not amber signifigantly or noticably like an oil or swedish finish.
Absolutely, this is a new gen finish that requires no mixing of a hardener so it can be used on different jobs.
Honestly, any normal method is a good way to apply Pall-X Power. We recommend a t-bar or roller but a pad or brush will work as well.
Pallmann Pall-X Power might just be the easiest finish to apply. Easier than Loba and Bona by far. For Pallmann ease of use is very important. The easiest products to use make sure contractors get paid and customers are happy with the look.
The bill allows you to change out the head if needed but also cuts down on scraping under the cabinets. Also, the bill allows for better sanding pressure and control of the scratch pattern.
Hook and loop 7″ sandpaper is needed to use the Pallmann Gecko 2.0.
You just adjust the yellow knobs up or down to get more agressive sanding or lighter more orbital sander like sanding. This machine is very versatile.
While the edger obviously looks different than a nromal Super 7, it is easier to use and sands better than a traditional edger. It will probably take 5-10 min to get use to the edger and be ready for anything you might encounter while sanding.
No, pallmann does not advise to do 2 coats of sealer as it is not meant to stick together.
Yes, there is no mixing so Pall-X Color sealer can be used on multple jobs with no issues.
The Pallmann Pall-X Color sealer makes the floor look close to a neutral stained floor. It gives great depth and makes natural and stained floors pop.
Pall-X Color is super easy to use and can be applyied with any method you would like such as roller, t-bar, bursh or pad.
Since the Pall-X WhiteSeal has white pigament in it, if you apply the finish too thick it will become whiter in areas. Going super thin gets rid of this issue.
Yes, Pallmann Pall-X WhiteSeal makes the floor look whitewashed or a Nordic look.
It is not as easy as color or clear to apply. However, if you do 2 thin coats with a roller and are conscious about the edges you will find you have no problems.
Your customer might just ask if you coated the floor. This finish makes it look like nothing is there compared to normal finish.
After mixing we recommend to keep mixing it as you go and to use this finish within 1 hour of mixing. To get the no sheen affect, pot life is affected.
Pallmann clearly states to only use a roller with this product. Thin and multiple coats is best.
We find that you can not get the sealer thin enough without the proper roller. A t0bar will leave start and stop marks as it is very hard to get it perfect film thickness.
Raw unsanded wood is what the look of Pall-X NatureSeal produces.
Yes, Pall-X NatureSeal is harder to apply than say a Pallmann Color and Clear sealer. After using the normal sealers you are spoiled as the pigamented sealers are harder to use since a heavy spot will appear whiter.
Using a Pallmann roller is the proper way. You also need to do 2 coats. Make sure each coat is thin. Then apply 2-3 top coats after.
No, this is a 2 component finish that will harden or begin hardening (depending on climate) after 4 hours or so. After use you can use it for a 2nd coat but after that it will not work.
Suprisingly for a 2 componenet finish, Pall-X Gold might just be the easiest to apply to flooring. In fact it works great on all species.
Absolutely, it is a 2 component finish that dries fast and is extremely durable. Pallmann Pall-X Gold finish is commercial rated.
I would say a natural look, so a normal waterbased sealer look. It does not bring out a lot of color and keeps the wood a more neutral look. If you want more depth or color and not a natural look, use the Pallmann Pall-X Color.
No, you need to use Pallmann Pall-X Color on walnut and birch woods. Clear will leave line son those woods because of the chemicals in the wood will react.
Everyone says it, but seriously you can use any method with this sealer. It is so nice using great products that work for you. You can use roller, t-bar, pad or brush.
Why fight to make a job perfect when you can use a product that makes your job perfect. Seriously, Pallmann Pall-X Clear/Color are the easiest of sealers to use. This is coming from 4 years of personal expereince trying different sealers.
No, Pallmann does not believe in intergrated moisture barrier as it doesn’t always work as intended and causes many issues with other brands moisture control that is impregnated into the glue itself.
P7 adhesive is able to be used on any width plank flooring that is 3/4″ and down.
Simple, b11 is the trowel to use for p5 and p7 glue.
Yes, P7 adhesive does spread easily. In fact, you are able to pour this glue out of the bucket – its that easy to spread.
No you do not need to us ea primer. It is ideal to use the Turbo 104 as a moisture mitigation of the subfloor.
Pallmann holds themselves to a higher standard so they do not offer the bait and switch of the moisture barrier. They offer a moisture barrier roll on that they feel is up to standard and will cover contractors. The main issue Pallmann says is wrong with the moisture barrier glue is that it is impossible to get a perfect spread unless you butter each board.
Yes, this glue is modified silane based and is a new generation of glues.
Yes, this might be one of the easiest glues to cleanup. If droppe don finish, will not etch the finish.
This knob makes it so you have a wide range of drum pressure from a lot to a little. The setting is a dail so you have a lot more options vs other machines.
Yes, it is basically like anyother drum sander. There isn’t very many part sso maintenance isn’t the most difficult.
Like all pallmann machines, this machine is overbuilt and is rugged.
Yes, the MS 262 works great for both applications. We advise to still nail with glue assisting.
One tube does 9sq ft. but since you are probably doing lines or s pattern application you should get 30-60 sq ft.
Just get a microfiber towel and clean it up or use Loba clean towels. It is ideal to clean before it dries. Once dried it can be harder to clean up.
You put the sausge in the tub and then once in take dike cutters and snip right below the metal tag. Once cut you put the top on and you are off to the races.
You need moisture transfer on wood substrate so it does not mold. Therefore, you are only able to only do 1 coat or it would build too much moisture.
Wakol PU 280 is approved to work with c oncrete and wood substrate (like plyuwood or osb)
You should be using use Loba microfiber roller # 60–80 or # 120. Make sure everything is blue, if not blue moisture will come through.
Yes, you can put it on a damp subfloor as long as it does not have standing water. Highly suggest to figure out if the water issue is fixed or not. PU 280 blocks moisture but it doesn’t block standing water.
Yes, it does offer sound dampening. STC (ASTM E 90) up to 67 & IIC (ASTM E 492) up to 73.
Yes, it offers up to 85% rh for protection against moisture. If you need more moistur eprotection use PU 280 as it offers up to 95%-100%
Yes, it can be used for both engineered and solid wood up to 8″ wide.
Loba MS 260 is easy to spread, super strong at holding wood but still being able to move with the seasons and is easy to cleanup. With MS 260 being able to go to 8″ wide boards that should take care of 90% of your installations.
Ceramic particles make the finish that much harder. Ceramic is tougher than anything else in waterbased, oilbased or swedish finish.
Why not? if you get your floors refinished every 30 years why not protect them with the best finish a company offers. While more expensive you get all the bells and whistles. Loba Supra A.T. is mainly made for commercial projects.
No, this is a fast drying ceramic product. It is not as easy to apply this finish as EasyFinish.
Supra A.T. is the fastest drying waterbased finish on the market. This makes it ideal for commercial projects.
LOBA Roller Microfiber 100/120: apply at 400-500 square feet per gallon per coat.
You can use any method, it is hard to see mistakes with this finish. Perferred is t-bar or roller.
Loba says that Invisible only needs 2 coats, but we have found 3 to be a safer bet for durability.
The beauty of this product is that you use the same product for all 3 coats. You will never see a difference in color after moving to step #2 and #3.
Let’s just say you will not be using Bona natural sealer anymore after trying this.
Litterly it looks like nothing is on the floor. You might think the contractor did nothing.
While the EasyPrime sealer by Loba pops the colors and makes all wood species look great, it does not amber or change the color of the wood too much. It fits todays design protocols.
If the coating is put down and recoated within 18 hours you will be good to hot coat this sealer. Hoever, it might be ideal to buff to get any grain raise gone and for the smoothest floor.
It is recommended to use a roller or t-bar to apply the EasyPrime sealer.
No, this sealer works on almost all woods, is easy to apply and leaves no lap marks!
It is not advised to use it on a commercial job. It is recommended to use a 2 componenet finish like a Loba Duo or Supra.
Like anyother 1 component finish, you generally can apply these with any method you would like. This means a roller, t-bar, pad, or brush.
That is the beauty of 1 component waterbased finishes, you are able to use half and save the rest for the next job without losing any money!
Yes, Loba EasyFinish is a one component finish which tend to be easier to apply than 2 componenet finishes.
No, since this product is mixed you are unable to save it.
Roller is the best according to Loba but a t-bar is used by a lot of people as well. There really is no “best” way to apply – it is what you are most comfertable with.
By cure menaing fully done hardening – 3 days. For walking on while it fully cures 8-12 hours. Loba doesn’t dont recommend putting rugs down till after fully cured.
Yes, this is a 2 component product dries fast. In terms of durability it is as strong as other 2 component finishes.
Yes, you just need a trowel and you being going left to right with the putty. Make sure to keep the putty as thin as possible while applying.
Take a wet cloth and rub it out. The wood filler does not bond to carpet.
The colors wood filler comes in are: maple ash pine, red oak, white oak, ebony, walnut & cherry.
Yes, the Duraseal trowable wood filler dries in about 20-40 min and is sandable directly after.
Roller or t-bar is the perferred method of applying the DUraseal waterbased polyurethane.
Yes, you are able to hot coat the floor. We recommend hot coating within 12 hours to get best adhesion.
Yes, for up to a year, the finish should be good to use on multiple jobs.
Duraseal Waterbased Polyurethane makes your wood have the look oil but the ease of waterbased finish.
You can use mineral spirits or paint thinnner to get it off. However, be careful and test a spot first because it can dull other finishes.
You can stain any wood. However, we recommend not staining maple as it can look uneven, blotchy or curly.
Stain can combust if not handled correctly. It is best practice to put rags on the grass/rocks 1 by 1 while staining. Never pile rags on top of eachother. Once done staining you should put them in a metal pail full with water.
Yes, you are able to buff on DuraSeal stain on.
The best stains are oil-based. The colors are deeper & look better. Waterbased stains look just plain strange.
THis is normal. The oil penetrates differently on different grain. The next coat should fill in 90-95% of this and a 3rd coat would fill it in if needed.
No, you will be buffing this sealer anyways so solids are not a major problem or concern.
No, the only different is the solids amount so you can begin buffing faster. The look is the exact same as oil-based polyurethane.
Quick Dry Sealer has more solvents that evaporate faster.
Yes, oil-based polyurethane does give a better depth and look to the floor.
While this question exists, it is more about maintenance and how you treat your floor. If you wear socks, both oil and water finishes last forever. If you are wearing shoes that are dirty – your wear will be increased 10x. But, techincally speaking oil-based products are just as durable, they just amber and take longer to dry.
We would recommend a roller as it is easier to get a thinner coat and have it level perfectly. Sometimes a t-bar can leave heavy lines or shiny spots.
This is probably one of the easiest finishes to apply to a hardwood floor. The Duraseal oil-based Polyurethane wood floor finish is a go to for many people.
For commercial projects we would recommend DuraSeal DuraClear Max. This finish by Duraseal dries fast, is extremely durable and has little odor.
Yes, Duraseal DuraClear Max is able to be hot coated. You need to hot coat ideally within 12 hours so the adhesion is the best possible.
Yes, you are able to roll DuraClear Max. However, 2 component finishes are harder to roll since they dry faster.
Once mixed you only have 6 hours to use or it will begin to harden and be impossible to level on the floor.
Yes, you are able to apply DuraClear Max over Duraseal Stain with no sealer. We recommend to wait overnight for the stain to fully dry.
For a house, Duraseal Duraclear finish is great. We do not recommend for commercial applications since the 2 component dries and cures faster. Did you know most “scratches” on your floor are not the finish scratching but the wood denting.
Yes, Duraseal Duraclear can be applied on top of dried stain with no isses or a need for a sealer.
Yes, this 1 component finish can be used on a job and saved for the next job. Just make sure the cap is on tight so no air can get in to let the finish harden.
You are able to roll, t-bar or pad Duraseal Duraclear finish. Whatever method you are most comfertable with is ideal to use with this finish.
Duraseal Duraclear is a 1 component finish. You do not need to mix anything into this finish.
Absolutely, vibrant will make the colors pop more and seem deeper like an oil-based finish. We recommend to put it over stain!
It is perferred to roll the Vibrant sealer on. You are able to t-bar it as well.
Vibrant is no different than like a Pallmann or bona sealer. It works and acts the same. The tinting sealers can be slightly harder to work with than clear sealers.
Its not really a color but more of a hue change. Arboritec Vibrant makes the colors dark and pop more. Imagine a oiled floor but only 50-75% of the color, tha tis what Vibrant looks like.
Unlike other brands, you are able to top coat this finish with avenue after applying it. If you do not like the sheen or look, it is a simple fix!
Absolutely, Miracle Oil is super simple to use and apply. There is virtually no way to get overlaps or odd issues of traditional finish. Miracle Oil is penetrating so different film thicknesses and other related issues with finish does not occur with Miracle Oil.
People get hung up on that this finish is a 1 coat process and it can’t be durable. However, it penetrates the wood and performs and works different than traditional finishes. This finish is durable and is easy to maintain over time. It is great for businesses.
You will notice the solids are 100% traditionally waterbased is around 32% solids. Because the solids are so high, it will go further.
It is recommended to trowel the oil on and then buff it off with rags or bonnet after 15 – 30 min.
Just like any other waterbased finished floor, we recommend using a pH neutral floor cleaner. a pH neutral cleaner will clean the floor but also not break down the finish and have it prematurely wear down.
Yes, you can do a maintenace coat if you would like. The ideal process is to:
- clean the floor
- Buff the floor with clean n coat
- Tack floor with microfiber pad
Finally apply Genuine Naked to the flooring.
Yes, Genuine Naked is durable. Naked finish uses a hardener to make it a strong finish and a viable product for commercial projects.
The perferred method is to apply this product with a roller. You are also able to use apad or t-bar.
You will want to seriously shake Arbroitec Genuine Naked product. The matting agents need to be mixed and stirred for atleast 2 minutes. Failing to shake effectively will make it hard to apply this finish perfectly. We also advise shaking the can every 15 min to ensure that the matting agents dont drop down.
The floor will have a very low sheen, probably one of the lowest in the industry. If you are looking to not see a reflection, this is the finish for you.
Both sealers that Arboritec offers are able to be used in conjunction with Genuine 5. Those flooring sealers are First Coat and Vibrant.
With all Arbvoritec flooring finishes, you should be shaking and/or mixing the finish for about 1-2 minutes. If the coat isn’t going as fast as normal we recommend shaking periodically to ensure the finish doesnt have the matte agents settling mid coat.
Arboritec recommends a roller for more even coat. However, you are also able to use a t-bar.
Suprisingly, this finish is easy to apply and works just like Avenue does. Arboritec hit it out of the park with this flooring finish.
You might need to see it to believe it, but you will not see a reflection in this finish. Genuine 5 finish is absolutely a ultra matte finish.
While everyone’s opinion is different… we would say this sealer looks like a Pallmann Clear, Loba EasyPrime or Bona ClassicSeal. First Coat is clear in appearance but does look like finish on the floor and isn’t a raw wood floor look.
No, First Coat Sealer is a 1-component sealer that is not mixed. This means this sealer can be used on multiple jobs and is good for 6-12 months after opening.
You are able to put Arboritec First Coat sealer on top of stain. However, we recommend skipping sealer or using Vibrant sealer to make the stain pop more.
Yes, you are able to sand First Coat sealer. We recommend using 180g or 220g to intercoat abrade with. You are also able to hot coat this sealer.
You are able to apply Arboritec First Coat however you normally apply waterbased sealer. We recommend rolling or t-bar.
Yes, you are able to coat stain directly over with Arboritec Classic+ finish. If you want a more vibrant look, we recommend using Vibrant sealer to make the stian pop more. Then coat the floor with Classic+ after Coating the floor with Vibrant.
We recommend using First Coat or Vibrant sealer by Arboritec. These sealers are meant to work with all the Arboritec finishes. However, if you buff you are able to use other sealers if needed.
Yes, you can roller Arboritec Classic+. You are also able to use a t-bar and pad as well.
Classic+ is an easy finish to apply. You will notice it is generally easier to use than Avenue. The reason for the ease of use is because it is a 1 part componenet, with no hardener you have longer open times for workability.
Yes, all Arboritec finishes use ceramic in thier finishes to increase durability.
Yes, Arboritec Classic+ finish is very durable. While it is a 1 componenet finish that doesn’t mean it isn’t durable. You will get about 85% of the durability of a 2 part finish. Most residential homes will never notice a difference.
No, Arboritec Classic+ finish does not go bad if you do not use it all at one time. This finish does not use a hardener so the pot life is not an issue. This finish should be good for 6-12 months after opening.
Absolutely. We recommend adding the harender then shaking the Avenue finish vigorously for 2 minutes to get proper mixing of the chemicals. After shaking Avenue Let the finish sit for 2-3 minutes and then begin coating. The wait period is important so that the air can escape for a better result and ease of use.
Yes, Arboritec Avenue is hot for about 4 hours and then begins to harden and making the bottle grow. You will want to mix this finish and then apply it within 1-4 hours for best results. After this time period the finish will be impossible to have level and look good.
While arboritec dries fast and has cermaic particles, this finish is relatively easy to apply. This finish can be applied by t-bar, pad or roller. Like anyother 2 componenet waterbased finish, you will have less time to apply than a 1 componenet-non hardened finish.
Yes, Avenue finish requires a hardener to dry faster and harder. The hardener is the special magic. Interesting fact, the sheen is not adjusted by the hardener like some other companies.
This just might be the hardest and most durable waterbased flooring finish on the market today. This finish offers ceramic particles that add to the strength and durability. While usually ceramic makes it hard to spread and let the finish level, this finish has mastered both.
Absolutely. This company is 100% american made, use forests that are monitored with mandated practices. THis product is 100% USA made!
The widths wd offers are 1-1/2″, 2.25″, 3.25″, 4″ and 5″ for their wood products.
WD Flooring is strictly a northern company. The WD Flooring companes from Laona, Wisconsin. Northern wood is tighter, less variation and looks amazing.
While antedotal, we did a test in our offices. A normal unfinished & prefinished plank were submerged in water takes on around 18% moisture overnight. The Ten Oaks sealed took on 2% of moisture. Both tests were done in the same sink, same water and for the same period. It is amazing how much moisture was repelled and not let into the wood to make it change size and shape!
Suprisingly, yes! While the wood waits at the mill and is being transported it is interesting how much a wood plank can move. The wood being sealed make sit so the wood is unable to bow or move while transporting. The Ten Oaks flooring is some of the straightest wood because of the full seal on the wood flooring.
It is recommended to wait till the house is closed up and the painting is done as the moisture can be very high. However, once this is done you do not need to acclimate the wood, you are able to install day of delivery wihtout fear of the floor not being flat.
Yes, glueing the floor down is perfectly fine. Ten Oaks has approved the use of Pallmann and Loba glues. You do not need to do anything special, you can glue right to the back of the board with the seal on it.